Lessons learned from food storage

Storing food long term is not easy.  There are many things that will go wrong and ruin the things you saved, it’s so aggravating to pack then away only to find a big mess later.  Here’s a list of things I’ve found that help the process:

  1. Always use Ziploc bags on EVERYTHING.

It doesn’t seem to matter what you are storing, it will be affected by moisture in some way. Putting each group of like items or individual item in Ziplocks keeps moisture out, prevents odors from permeating packages, and keeps any packaging failure localized. I’ve had things rupture and ruin an entire 20 gallon Tupperware bin, bagging it would have stopped that from happening.  This is addition to a Tupperware bin, or cases of #10 cans in boxes.  Put one of the 20 gallon bags around any cardboard boxes, as they will absorb moisture and deteriorate.

2.  Don’t rely on desiccants, and NEVER use Damp-rid!

I made a few mistakes early on, the biggest was using Damp-rid inside containers. That stuff turns into a soupy mess of water and is highly corrosive. It ends up putting pools of water in your storage bin, which is exactly what you didn’t want. It’s far better to seal everything, and try to store in a low humidity environment. Silica gel may work, but I suspect it also gets saturated.

3. Be very careful with canned goods.

I have had soup rust through from the inside in only a few years, modern cans are not the same as the old tin plated soldered versions. People claim canned food will last decades, but that has not been my experience. I have no canned good in my storage as a result, it’s all dry mix.

4. Don’t store flour or corn meal unless there is no alternative.

They have very short shelf life, and can be made up from canned popcorn and wheat berries.  You could repack flours, but the taste and nutritional value is just not there.

5.  Buy items packed in metal cans or glass jugs/jars whenever possible.

Believe it when people say plastic is permeable. Same goes for paper, foil,  or cardboard. It doesn’t seem hold up to storage and picks up funky smells.  Many staples can be purchased in cans, from places like Emergency Essentials or Rainy Day Foods.  I switched over to cans on dried corn, baking powder/soda, cocoa, sugar, powered milk, drink and soup mixes, and spices. I got really tired of replacing stock. Example: I had a brand new plastic bottle of aspirin stored, the pills started growing whiskers and clumping together. I can only assume this was moisture getting in, but in any case it didn’t hold up.

6.  Buy powder vs liquid.

This is a shelf life and volume issue, the powders weight less and seem to keep longer than liquid versions.

Results of the 2018 storage check

It’s that time again, it’s already been close to 5 years since I last cycled through the mid-term storage items.  I had checked my boxed up freeze dried stuff back in 2016, but I didn’t do a detailed check of the bins where I save the grocery store type stuff. Here’s the highlights:

  • Kool Aid packets. Fail. They picked up up moisture and formed a puck inside the packets, plus they changed color and got some green specks which I’m pretty sure aren’t flavor crystals. These may have been from 2005, so I can give them a pass but they don’t last all that long sitting around.
  • Gel deodorant. Fail. Turned into liquid, thankfully they stayed sealed.  Same thing, 2005 vintage, but I’m going to solid stick now.
  • House brand liquid dish soap. Win. Perfect, from 2005.
  • Book matches, 1000. Win. Had rusty staples but struck like new. 2005.
  • Flour and corn meal.  Fail.  Picked up moisture and odors from other items. 2013.
  • Sugar (bag). Fail. Moisture on the bottom of the sack. 2013. Guess it’s hygroscopic.
  • Peanut butter. Win.  Looks and smells perfect, 2013. This will go back into storage until 2022, it will get pitched then. I pick up 4 huge jars every 4 years.
  • Oil. Win. Looks and smells perfect, 2013. Same as the PB, 8 year life. 
  • Yeast packets. Win.  Looked and smelled great, and proofed just fine. 2005. I’ve since switched to glass jars, but the packets held up. A big surprise, everyone claims they go bad but apparently not.
  • Aspirin. Fail. The pills had crystal whiskers growing out of them, and were clumping together, 2005 . I figured aspirin would last for decades, guess not.

Funny how many things go bad after a few years, even when you try to keep them in a favorable environment. This is one of the things apocalypse movies get wrong, things just don’t last.

 

Five food items we can’t live without (literally)

I was putting the final items on my last BePrepared supply order, and it occurred to me that I had totally underestimated my need for salt. For some reason, I figured 2 cardboard cans of Morton’s would be plenty (that’s about 3 pounds). I started calculating daily usage, times my family for a year and that came to 25 pounds.  Yikes…sure missed that one.  So I added enough to cover me conservatively for a year or more, it’s cheap as heck and compact. 

You simply can’t survive with no salt, so this goes to number two on the must-have list behind clean water. 

 Number three is probably sugar.  Once a crisis is underway, that will be difficult if not impossible to obtain, and it goes in just about every kind of food imaginable. Daily sugar intake is at least double salt, so I went with 60 pounds.

 Number four, probably powdered milk. No way to get dairy unless you own one.

 Number five, powdered eggs. 

 Everything else you can grow, make, or gather. Spices, oil, nuts, fish and game,  wheat, vegetables, beer, vinegar, yeast (sourdough), etc. I keep going back to the mental image of a homesteader packing the Conestoga to make the journey out west, they had far less sophisticated things but managed OK. 

Belated update on the 8 year storage results

I forgot to mention a few things when I posted the first round. In no particular order:

1. Powdered milk in the box = iffy. It looked sort of yellowed and smelled odd, it may have been OK but I’m recommending buying it an a vacuum sealed can. I need to break some of this out (I have that as well) and see if it is usable, I hate to blindly assume it’s OK.

2. Potato flakes in a box = fail. This was a 24 month in my pantry test, I made some up and noticed it was not white and tasted like used gym socks. Same thing as the milk, go with the #10 cans and test every few years. Maybe better at 60F, I dunno.

3. #10 cans= win. Even with a half-assed plastic box wrap in a really humid place, none of the cans showed any rust or degradation. I’ve since sealed the space, and ziplocked/dessicant bagged so I should be good for another 25.

Mid-term emergency planning

We’ve discussed short term planning and prep in a previous post, the next phase begins roughly 20-30 days after the event and lasts until you can achieve sustainability. Recall that the short-term will be covered by a relatively moderate amount of preparation and supplies, augmented by whatever you have on hand or can grab prior to the depletion of local stores. That will represent the last link to normal and familiar existence, after that runs out you will need to shift to a much more labor intensive routine. Most of us take advantage of prepared foods and many modern conveniences, none of which will exist. There are a number of categories to consider:

  • Heating
  • Power
  • Cooking
  • Water
  • Food
  • Sanitation
  • Self-defense
  • Shelter
  • Fuel
  • Transportation
  • Human interaction

It’s sort of a “OK I made it this far, now what?” scenario.  Up to that point, chances are it will seem like a camping trip or the aftermath of a hurricane; not a lot of work just consuming supplies. The next phase will need to last long enough to get things ramped up to allow existing on what you can grow and collect in and around your dwelling.  That’s the Day366 idea, maybe it’s Day183 but same principal. At some point, no matter how much stuff you hoard you will run out. That will be primarily food related items, the rest is less critical and beyond the scope of this blog. To a large extent, other things will become available as people move on (both figuratively and literally). For instance, say 5 months later you need some nails. The local Home Depot will probably have lots of them, you can’t eat nails and they are useless to looters.

I’m going to cover the last item of my list first, Human Interaction. This might be the most important one, since your survival could depend on who shows up at your place.

Human Interactions

There’s a new movie out called “American Blackout”, I don’t plan on watching it but the plot revolves around a cyber-attack on the power grid. It covers the first 10 days, but I’m not sure if it assumes the blackout lasts longer than that. This made me think (again) about how people would respond in a crisis, and how my planning would be affected.  Frankly, I have a very tough time imagining what others will do. We all tend to assume people will behave in a certain fashion, either like us, helpless incompetents, or as criminals.  That’s the sense I get visiting prep sites, maybe that’s correct but no idea, really. I’m going to try to be open-minded and think this one through.

Neighbors

These folks are, by virtue of proximity and familiarity, going to be the first to come a ‘knocking.  I expect them to be out and about and seeking help and information from the start of the crisis, it’s only natural but begs the question of how to respond.  On one hand, if outsiders cause trouble you may want to band together for protection. On the other, chances are they will only drain what limited resources you have and expect you to help even if you can’t. My position is to offer guidance, information (you may be the only link to the outside), and assistance defending against outsiders.  Say nothing about what you have, that will create a terrible problem later. I’d like to be able to function as Farmer Bob and feed the subdivision, but that’s not practical. So, the only reasonable path is to defer food requests and make them find it themselves. I could probably provide clean drinking water, assuming they bring it to me for filtering and treatment. I could also give them a few seeds, if they can plant and maintain a garden.  You have to force people to shift for themselves, otherwise they will do nothing and expect to be taken care of. Sound harsh, but there’s no other way to handle it.  It’s the old saying about teaching someone to fish rather than giving them one…

The exception to this is block defense, if strangers begin roaming and looting houses you may need to form a team to repel them. I suppose it would be like a tiny version of the Minutemen, those who own firearms respond to the call. That assumes your neighbors are not royally pissed off at you and/or are the ones doing the looting.

What I’d really like to do is organize the nearby homes, pool resources, and get cranking on the gardening/farming/wood cutting/improvising.  Whether or not I can convince people to follow that is a big question, but they’d have few options.   Beats me if this is feasible, or it breaks down and we end up in Mad Max mode after all.

Outsiders

This is the land of pure speculation. I’m not sure if too many outsiders would show up, given the difficulty of travel and resupply. If they did, I would stay quiet and wait until they left. If they caused trouble, warn then dispatch. I don’t see how you could tolerate any form of looting, that defeats the whole purpose of prepping and would cause you to lose everything you worked so hard to put in place.  ‘Nuff said there.  One complication would be cops and armed forces, if they started commandeering private property under some bullshit law it would put you in a real bind. I could just see the local doughnut eaters trying this, although I doubt it would be successful. If the armed forces do it, maybe better equipped but still facing resistance from heavily armed homeowners. Same approach, hide then attack if they persist.

Food

Learning from my storage experiments, here’s what I recommend as the food options:

  1. Freeze dried entrees, veggies, fruits. This stuff is reasonably priced, stores for up to 25 years, and has enough variety to prevent food monotony. How much is up to you, but I suggest at a minimum three meals a day per person for 3 months. This, added to the short term stock plus things I list later, should get you to the 6 month or beyond mark. http://www.beprepared.com is a good source of these items, I’ve been very happy with them.
  2. Freeze dried basics. You will want to augment the entrees with some staples, like potatoes, soy protein meat substitutes, powdered eggs, powdered milk/butter/sour cream/tomato paste, etc. These allow you add in simple sides and also make things like pasta sauce from long term stores. This will stretch out your entrée selection and use things like rice, beans, and pasta in normal dishes rather than prison camp fare.  What’s for breakfast? Beans. Lunch? Beans. Dinner? Get ready….RICE! Yay!  Need to avoid that trap. http://www.rainydayfoods.com/ is a good source for all this.
  3. Grocery Store items. You don’t need to buy everything in sealed cans, here’s a sample of what can be safely stored in Ziplock bags and boxes:
    1. Pasta.
    2. Rice
    3. Baking powder
    4. Yeast
    5. Salt
    6. Sugar
    7. Spices
    8. Cocoa
    9. Dry soup mix
    10. Potato flakes
    11. Canned meat. Note: this needs to be stored separately, rotated and checked. The cans do corrode and the result is a disaster.
  4. Grains and legumes. Sold as a kit by BePrepared, contains a years supply of misc grains. Highly recommended, but note requires a grain mill for the wheat and oats.
  5. Oils. I’m still working on this, but so far the leading candidate is coconut oil. It’s almost fully saturated, is a solid below 75 F, and is said to keep for 6+ years if kept cool, dark, and unopened.  Plain corn oil is OK if you check it, but this is a work in progress.  BTW you MUST have some kind of fats and oils in your diet, plan on looking like the Olsen twins without it.
  6. Powdered drink mix, coffee.  This falls under the monotony rule, it is said that drinking just plain water leads to dehydration, esp. with kids.  Packets and jars of Koolaid and chocolate milk store well and are easy to make.

Heating and Cooking

Really the same thing, you probably will be using the same item as a heat source and for cooking. The best approach is a propane burner, this can be run indoors with no smoke. Downside is the need to stockpile gas, but some quick ciphering leads you to about 8-10 15 lb cylinders as a minimum. That’s not bad at all, and highly recommended. Using a Coleman camp oven on top the burner gives you a small volume stove.

Alternately, you can purchase a cheap wood stove and pop for the Lehman’s Amish oven. This is a lot more hassle, you have to run a chimney, cut and season wood, and will create a giant signal that says “go here to pillage”.  It’s totally non-stealthy, and really belongs in the Day366 section but thought I’d mention it.

Stay tuned for more when I get motivated to finish this post….

Results for 8 year storage of various items

 

I just checked on some stuff I had stored way back in 2005, some of it was supposed to be rotated out at 4 years but some didn’t have a hard use by date. I haven’t gotten to opening some individual containers and checking, just visuals and observations. So far one negative result and the rest positive, but this is all new to me. Keep in mind this was a pack and forget, and I suspect most people are going to be lax on checking up on the cache. Here’s the summary:

Gasoline

Win. This was the big surprise, put 10 gallons in my truck and it ran fine. No discernible difference between that and pump gas. Usually stale gas gets dark yellow, and reeks like old paint. This was a little yellower than fresh, but smelled the same. The trick was to store it in plastic, and keep it cool. I figured it would be dead, but no.

Canned goods aka No Soup For You

Fail. Canned soup rusted from the inside out, and weeped on all the other cans, rusting them too. It was either the tomato or the chicken noodle, I guess the salt or acid affected the can coating. Based on that, I recommend no canned soup or any canned goods with liquids go into the supply. Canned vegetable and soups are all readily available as dry mixes or dehydrated, there’s really no point in cans. Jars probably have the same problem due to the metal lids. I might make exceptions for canned meats, but I am not sure about the specifics. You’ll have to wait another 5 years for that….

Dry goods

Win. Everything looked great, zero issues on inspection. No mold/weevils/splotching/rusty cans etc. The sugar was still granular, no caking (fully expected a solid concrete like mass in the bag).

Vegetable oil

Win, to my eye. Still nice and clear, have yet to crack one open and sniff. I may try to send a sample to a lab if it’s not too spendy. Supposedly when ooil goes bad it gets rancid and smelly, and tastes like shit. No way I will actually eat it.

Peanut butter

Win, conditional. Same as the oil, looked fabulous. Will sniff and then send for a test.

Storage conditions

My storage area is cool, but not really that dry. I put everything in big storage bins, then used big ziplocks inside that for most things. I have some cans that were boxed, those got bagged and taped but I think I need a better seal. I recommend ziplocking EVERYTHING, and tossing in a dessicant packet. That way you know for sure it’s sealed.